Crispy Sweet Potato Fries with Sage

Most oven sweet potato fries come out soft. Caramelized on the bottom, slightly crisp on the edges if you're lucky, but mostly soft in the middle and not really what you were hoping for. The reason is moisture. Sweet potatoes contain a lot of it, and that moisture turns to steam in the oven, cooking the fries from the inside out rather than crisping the surface.

Two things change that. First, a 30-minute soak in cold water pulls surface starch out of the cut fries, and starch is what holds onto moisture and prevents crisping. Second, a light coating of cornstarch before roasting creates a thin barrier on the exterior that gives the heat something to work with. A crisp shell forms before the interior gets soft. High heat, 425°F, does the rest.

The brown butter and sage finishing step is the kind of thing that takes 90 seconds and makes a dish memorable. The sage fries quickly in the hot butter, crisping up into something almost lacy, and the brown butter soaks into the fries with a nutty richness that plays beautifully against the sweetness of the potato. This is a side dish that can steal the show.

Ingredients

• 2 large sweet potatoes, peeled
• 2 tablespoons olive oil or avocado oil
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional, but it adds a nice savory note)

For the sage:

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 10 to 12 fresh sage leaves
• Flaky sea salt for finishing

Instructions

1. Cut the sweet potatoes into fries about 1/4 inch thick and 3 to 4 inches long. Try to keep them as uniform as possible so they cook evenly. Uneven fries mean some are done while others still need time.

2. Put the cut fries into a large bowl of cold water. Let them soak for at least 30 minutes, up to an hour. The water will turn cloudy from the starch releasing. That's exactly what you want.

3. Preheat your oven to 425°F. Set oven racks to the two middle positions if you're using two baking sheets.

4. Drain the fries and dry them thoroughly. Thoroughly means thoroughly. Spread them on clean kitchen towels or a stack of paper towels and pat every surface dry. Any remaining moisture will steam in the oven and kill the crispiness.

5. Return the dry fries to the bowl. Drizzle with the oil and toss to coat. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the top and toss again until every fry has a light, even coating. Add the salt, pepper, and smoked paprika and toss once more.

6. Spread the fries in a single layer on baking sheets lined with parchment paper. Single layer, no overlapping. Fries that touch each other steam instead of roast. Use two pans if you need to.

7. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, flipping once at the 15-minute mark. They're done when the edges are crisp and golden and they can be lifted off the parchment without sticking.

8. While the fries finish roasting, melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Let it cook for 2 to 3 minutes until it turns golden and smells nutty. Add the sage leaves. They'll sizzle and crisp in about 30 seconds. Remove from heat.

9. Toss the finished fries with the sage and brown butter directly on the baking sheet. Sprinkle with flaky salt and serve immediately.

Tips

Eat these right away. Sweet potato fries lose their crispiness as they sit, faster than regular fries. They're a cook-and-serve item, not a make-ahead one.

If you skip the sage, the fries are still excellent on their own. They pair well with chipotle mayo (plain Greek yogurt + chipotle hot sauce + garlic), a honey-Dijon dip, or just a simple tahini drizzle for something different.

The cornstarch is key and can't really be replaced with flour. Cornstarch gives a thinner, crisper coating because it has almost no gluten. If you want to keep these strictly gluten-free, make sure your cornstarch is certified GF. Some brands are processed on shared equipment.